Fashion Models Runway

PARIS–Skinny models are still dominating the runways of Europe, despite a furor in the media. But with all this attention on who is wearing the clothes, rather than on the clothes themselves, another troubling matter has come into focus: the lack of ethnic diversity on the runways.

With 86 shows on the Milan schedule and each show with an average cast of 25 models, the odds are there would be more than a handful of blacks, Asians and other visible minorities. But in the few shows that did have ethnically diverse models on the catwalk, the non-white faces were ridiculously easy to count – perhaps one black and rarely more than two Asians.

Things are not much better in Paris, though there are a few designers, such as Vivienne Westwood and Issey Miyake, who have a better track record when it comes to diversity.

"It's never going to be easy for black girls," says Toronto-based Honorine Uwera, who appeared in the Westwood and Miyake shows this week. "I never understood why they would only use one or two black girls because really if you are going to use any at all why not cast more?"

Fashion Model Runway
Fashion Model RunwayBackstage at the Dsquared show, Chanel Iman, who is part African-American and part Korean, says, "I would love to see different girls from all around the world with different looks and different faces in the shows."

On her many Milan go-sees, some designers told the Los Angeles-based model she did not have the look they wanted or she did not fit the clothes.

"It could be a case of supply and demand," says Michael Giannini, creative director of d'Management Group, one of the top model agencies in Milan. "In the eyes of some designers they are showing the clothes on models that their market can relate to."

What, then, to make of the African-American singer Eve and British-African actress Thandie Newton who sat front row at the Fendi show?

Giannini feels designers tend to cast more black models in their spring shows, where the fabrics are lighter and the colours more complementary to their skin tones.
Fashion Model Runway
Fashion Model RunwayThere is also a trend this season to style the models uniformly so they are indistinguishable.

"They are very android, less recognizable and have a very uniform look," notes Susie Sheffman, fashion director of Toronto's Fashion magazine. "None of the girls stand out now."

After the personality-driven supermodel era, where the models – Linda, Naomi, Cindy – were household names, designers today are focused on not letting the faces overshadow the clothes.

Giannini agrees, having been told that some of the ethnic models on his roster were too strong-looking or stood out too much in the line-up.

"But I'm hoping this, too, will pass," he says. He points to positive evidence of the few Italian designers who support ethnic models, citing Gianfranco Ferre and Roberto Cavalli.
Fashion Model Runway
Fashion Model RunwayCelia Sears, a Canadian fashion stylist based in Milan and contributor to Toronto's FQ magazine, says change must occur on both sides of the equation.

"When you go to Tokyo, the models in these ads are not Asian. They are most likely blond hair and blue eyes. There has to be change on both sides – not just from designers but from a consumer standpoint."

Uwera, a Rwandan refugee who fled to Canada seven years ago with her sister after their parents were killed, isn't letting the race hurdle get her down.

"I'm still going to castings. If they like me or not, that's not something I can control. But I'm trying just like everyone else. And that's all I can do."
Fashion Model RunwayWith 86 shows on the Milan schedule and each show with an average cast of 25 models, the odds are there would be more than a handful of blacks, Asians and other visible minorities. But in the few shows that did have ethnically diverse models on the catwalk, the non-white faces were ridiculously easy to count – perhaps one black and rarely more than two Asians.

Things are not much better in Paris, though there are a few designers, such as Vivienne Westwood and Issey Miyake, who have a better track record when it comes to diversity.

"It's never going to be easy for black girls," says Toronto-based Honorine Uwera, who appeared in the Westwood and Miyake shows this week. "I never understood why they would only use one or two black girls because really if you are going to use any at all why not cast more?"

Some of the reasons she has heard for not being cast is that she is too dark or too skinny. But most times no reason is given.